It's summer, which means time for the annual cellar field trip, and this year the whole production crew left the comfort of the Napa Valley for the hills of Sonoma. We began our morning at Gundlach Bundschu.
As soon as we arrived they put the 12 of us in this truck and took us on a vineyard safari. This is an open air, 12 person Swiss army truck called a Pinzgauer, which they more affectionately refer to as their "baby elephant".
It was a cold, overcast morning, not the best time to be going on a vineyard safari but it was a great way to get to see all of the property. The estate vineyards cover 320 acres and range up to 150 feet in elevation. The last place I worked at had 60 estate acres and we saw them all on foot.
The different elevations allow them to grow specific varietals suited for different climates. This property seemed to be the opposite of the typical Napa Valley site. In Napa, the warm climate varietals are grown on the valley floor and hillside, while the cooler climates are found up in the mountains. On this property, below 150 feet they grow their earlier ripening, high acid varieties (Pinot noir, Gewurztraminer and Chardonnay) because the cool air settles on the valley floor.
The steep hillsides above 150 feet are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Syrah and Zinfandel.
Also, there was a lake.
One of the vineyards was being ripped out, very old vines. The estate is 153 years old, which is nothing for France, but significant for a California vineyard. It's sad to see a ripped out vineyard because you know you wont get fruit from the land for another 5 years (if you replant quickly), but I really like the way the mangled piles look out in the vast open field.
On the tour of the property we ran into this guy. His name is Lunch and he is a Watusi African Longhorn cow.
This is Dinner, he is a second Watusi African Longhorn cow. Our guide couldn't really explain why these guys were here, except that they had been on the property since they were babies and they forgot to eat them and now they are too old, so they let them be. Does old cow taste bad?
The 40 minute tour of the 320 acres of G.B. ended at the entrance to their cave. It was finally time to taste the wines from the vineyards.
Inside the cave the barrels were stacked either one high or two high in some wings. It wasn't a very efficient cave, lots of tight corners and narrow aisles, a very difficult and unpleasant place to work. I imagine it was built so long ago and they have since out grown the space with their expanding production. But you make do with what you have.
However, what the cave lacked in efficiency it made up for in style. In the middle of the cave there was a very snazzy tasting area.
We had a tasting of 6 wines they make. First was the Gewurzts., which had a lovely aroma and flavor but lacked acid and therefore structure. Second was the Chardonnay which I was very impressed by, especially since I do not like Chard. It had the minerality of a wine made with no oak but a creamy roundness that comes uniquely from oak, well balnced. Next was a Pinot, which was good. And then 3 examples of Cabernet Sauvignon, all worth trying.
On our way out these chiar caught my eye. I love barrel furniture, a great way to recycle old barrels.
So ended Part One of the field trip.
-L
Up Next: Ramekins Culinary School.
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